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Monday, June 13, 2011

History, Temperature, and Kolaches

History

It’s time for everyone’s favorite missed named Breakfast Food, Kolaches. Now those of us lucky enough to live in an area with a large Czech or Polish heritage have been eating these little buggers for years and know just how great they are. Sausage and cheese baked right into a bun is what it’s all about in the H Town donut shops. But did you know that those are not Kolaches? They are Klobasneks, a cousin to the true Kolache which is a pastry consisting of semi-sweet yeast dough baked with fillings such as fruits, poppy seed, prunes, and cream cheese, often served open-faced[1]. But here in Texas, as in most of the Western World we group them all under the name of Kolache.

Today we are making the Sausage and Cheese verity, so don’t worry if that first paragraph had you worried about your Poppy Seed intake. This recipe starts with a dough I learned in culinary school that I modified and scaled down[2]. To make it, and have it come out great each time I will have a quick lesson on Temperature.

Temperature

In bread production Temperature is key in all stages, and it is all Yeasts fault. If your temperature is too high it kills the yeast, you murderer. If it is too low then your yeast never activates and dies too, also makes you a murderer. There are many ways to control the temp of this dough but we will use Basic Temperature to do it today.

Basic Temperature is a temp given with a recipe that helps you keep your dough the same temp. coming out of the mixer every time[3]. This will give your dough a identical rise and proof time every time, meaning every time you make the dough the yeast is active for the same amount of time, which gives you the same amount of flavor development, which makes it taste the same every time. Out side of a bake shop this has little use except when cooking in a very hot or very cold kitchen.

It goes like this; our Basic Temp for this dough is 60°C/140°F. Now subtract your room Temp. and your flour Temp[4]. from Basic Temp. The difference is what you water temperature should be. If you don’t like going through all that add water around 20C/68F. It’s how I cheat[5]. Let’s get cooking.

The Recipe

· 800 grams AP Flour

· 100 grams HG Flour[6]

· 50 grams Milk Powder

· 500 grams Water

· 20 grams Dry Yeast[7]

· 35 grams Salt

· 60 grams Sugar

· 100 grams Unsalted Butter

· Sausage Links[8]

· Medium or Mild Shredded Cheese

1) Take all those ingredients except for the salt and butter and put them in your mixer. Knead it on low for 5 good minutes. This may cause you mixer some grief, it will be a stiff dough and is tough on the mixer. If your mixer stats to heat up put an ice pack on it, it works. If you are still worried mix it by hand you pansy.

2) Cut the butter into a few pats while all that is mixing. Then dump the salt in and add the butter one pat at a time. Crank that mixer up to Medium speed and let it go for 10 minutes this time. The butter will get mixed in as it also greases the side of the bowl, letting the dough knead easier.[9]

3) Grease a bowl with cook spray and put that dough in it after it finishes kneading. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm dry place for 30 minutes. Punch down dough and portion and then begin to portion it out with a dough cutter, plastic scraper, or bench scraper. I do mine at about 60 grams, but if you are using bigger sausage you will want larger portions. DO NOT SHAPE PORTIONS; JUST PUT THEM ASIDE IN ORDER OF BEING CUT.[10]

4) After all the dough is portioned take the first one you cut off and begin shaping it. Work from first to last, this gives the dough time to rest so when you shape it is not tough. Here are my sub steps for shaping.

a) Roll dough into a ball quickly, without working too much.

b) Dust counter top with flour, not a lot.

c) Place dough ball and on flour and press down with the area between your first and second knuckles.

d) Dust the top of dough with a little flour and using a rolling pin roll into a rectangle 1 inch longer then you sausage and about wide enough that you think you can roll the sausage up in.

5) Place sausage in shaped dough, and sprinkle in some cheese. Fold in the ends and roll the dough up. Make sure to pinch all seams.

6) Place kolaches seam side down on a greased baking sheet ½ an inch apart from each other in all directions. Cover with a tea towel and let rise for 60 minutes or until doubled in size. Pay attention to size because if it’s cold in your kitchen it might take longer, but if it’s hot it will take less. Preheat oven to 350F.

7) Brush on an egg wash (egg yoke and milk mixed together), and bake till browned perfectly. Baking time will very by oven but for me it’s around 15 to 20 minutes. Remember to rotate tray halfway to ovoid hotspots.

8) Cool in pan for until you can safely remove them to a rack. Eat and enjoy.

That my friends, is basically it. Play with this recipe, make it your own. Add jalapeños, or use bacon, just have fun. I have this idea to use beef, caramelized onions and gruyere for a French dip kolache, but that’s my idea, get your own. I added a bunch of foot notes for my brother Dave’s Birthday, he loves foot notes. Any question, you know where to find me.


[2] Thanks to my friend Diana who helped me do this over the phone and Facebook.

[3] Yeast works best in dough between 75-80F.

[4] Yes, put that thermometer in that pile of flour.

[5] If you liked doing all that Math then you can calculate you own base temp by using this formula. Start with End Temp which would be around 77F. So 77 X 3 =231. Now add Room Temp, Flour Temp, and Mixer Friction Factor which is usually around 25F and subtract from 231. That number will be Basic Temperature. If you want to know your mixers actual Friction Factor do the math found on this page.

[6] Can use Bread Flour

[7] Also called Bread Machine Yeast these days.

[9] If you have a new Kitchen Aid Mixer with the wider bowl add 3 to 4 minutes kneading time. The wider bowl gives it a less friction during kneading.

[10] The dough will need to rest and relax, if you don’t let it, it will be too elastic to shape and roll out.

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